@dazouri wrote:
I used this once and set it aside as work life balance fell to hell
Wonderful item with the Vise, Flip Jig, Alum Plate and every bit they make for it! (All included in the price) Still have the original box and paperwork. I really do have only 15-30 minute of run time on it.
Asking 1800 + shipping to move it quickly. PM me if interested. Hopefully this isn't breaking any rules posting here.
Daz
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@wcason04 wrote:
I run the homing and the z axis goes down instead of up. This is a brand new machine and can not figure out what's wrong. Someone else tell me what to do?
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@cgallery wrote:
I realized some of the parts I was making weren't square. It wasn't a big deal, these particular units can be rhombus shaped, but I did make a note that when I got a chance, I'd investigate my lack of squareness.
So last night I pulled the gantry all the way forward and noticed there was almost a 1/4" different from left to right, when it came to reaching the ends of the Y-axis rails.
I had read a comment somewhere about the extrusions not being cut square at the factory, so figured I'd shim the X-axis gantry and I got rid of the 1/4". But what bothered me was that I checked for square between the left and right gantry plates, and the extrusion, and it was now a rhombus.
So I started checking my extrusions to the front and rear frames. Very nominal out-of-square (though I did shim here and there with some receipt printer, about .002").
I then noticed that the rear of the right gantry plate was toed-in slightly towards the center, about .1-MM. Huh. Stopped at the hardware store and picked-up some additional 5-MM washers (I sorted a bunch of them in the store for thickness and got my usual rolling of the eyes by the staff). Added a washer behind each rear wheel (top and bottom) and checked the machine for square, voila.
I still have about a .05" difference when pulling the gantry all the way forward, but when I power the unit up (so the motors lock) and check for square between the X and Y-axis extrusions, I'm pretty spot-on according to both a Starrett 12" combination square and a 12" drafting triangle. I will have to cut some material to get a better idea of whether I'm close enough, but at least I'm on the right track.
That is sort of the nice thing about the Shapeoko, I can effect these sorts of adjustments easily and inexpensively. I have a benchtop K2 prototype that cannot be squared, they didn't make any allowance for squaring the machine when they designed it. Adjustments have to be performed in Mach.
Oh well, thought I'd share my squaring story.
I don't know how typical this is, I got the machine used and abused.
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@nick wrote:
I need to update the CAD model I have of my Shapeoko and noticed the z plate is still the old one. I am away from my machine for a while so was wondering if anyone had an engineering drawing or cad file of it? @ApolloCrowe ? @edwardrford ? you guys got anything?
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@wcason04 wrote:
I don't know what I doing it starts cutting what I created in two different places. Part of this was I put the board in the wrong place. Sorry I new to this whole cnc think.
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@Transcendence wrote:
Hi everyone, I just bought a used Nomad 883 (not the Pro) from Skeletonx. I intend to go through all the tutorials and relevant forum posts. But my 1st question is this: I have a great Polymax Hegner scroll saw, so does it make sense to cut the basic shape/contour of a part with the scroll saw and then have the Nomad do the finer 3d stuff? It seems to me like It'd save some time on finishing some pieces. Any thoughts or things I should have in mind?
Thanks!
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@jordanhale wrote:
I just wanted to share some of the most recent stuff I made.
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@cgallery wrote:
I'm still on my journey to fix-up the Shapeoko 3 I purchased used. Just yesterday I got the machine square by adding washers behind the two rear v-wheels on the right-hand of the gantry. The right-side gantry plate was bent slightly, adding 1-MM behind each wheel (in addition to the stock washers) brought the machine into square. Awesome.
I was pretty certain the belts had some stretch, milling acrylic and polycarbonate parts was resulting in undersized components. On the X-axis, for instance, an expected 3.5" was coming in at 3.486". And on the Y, an expected 4.5" was coming in at 4.486".
I know deflection can contribute to undersized (or oversized) parts, so I didn't want to rely entirely on the parts to determine my adjustments to $100 and $101.
So I mounted a cheapy digital dial indicator (from HF, with a button tip sourced from McMaster I think some time ago) to the table, and compared the DI to the values from CM.
An expected 23mm move was coming in at 22.91mm on the X-axis, and 23mm was 22.92 on the Y-axis. If you take this as a ratio, and multiply the actual part width, you get: (23/22.91) * 3.486 = 3.49969 (3.5 in the real-world). Awesome.
Doing the same for the Y-axis, I get (23/22.92) * 4.486 = 4.502, also pretty awesome. I am still getting a rougher finish on these edges so .002" oversized is not surprising to me at all. That is my next "issue."
So I thought it was interesting how the two methods to calibrate/adjust for belt stretch correlate with one another quite closely, and figured I'd share my results.
I did use the values I measured via DI to adjust my $100 and $101, and then re-tested with the DI. Over the 1"+ of travel of the DI, I was never off by more than .03mm and was often within .01mm or spot-on. I don't think these indicators can truly resolve to .01mm (that would be .0004"). So every few moves of the router by 1mm, the Carbide Motion #'s would be spot-on with the DI #'s again, over the full 25mm travel. I don't think I can do any better than that.
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@johnelle wrote:
I was trying to do a wood trail map (sign) by importing the map as background and tracing over the paths with polylines. When I try to do v-carve on this the labels (text) show up in the simulation but the polylines are completely missing.
Do I have use a small ball end on the paths?
Why can't I v-carve a polyline?
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Participants: 2
@JFischer911 wrote:
Hi all,
I've been happily playing...er, experimenting with my new XXL after building its enclosure (more like luxury condo, pics to come soon) and assembling it. I've had a lot of fun and learned a ton but I keep running into a few issues I can't find info on when skipping around the forum or wiki.The first is a bit of a stutter when jogging. When I manually jog, it intermittently pauses for a fraction of a second and then continues on its way. It only happens during manual jogging though, not during rapid positioning or homing. Also, there's another, longer stutter sometimes when a job is running. It will pause for a second or two in the middle of cutting, say, a hole, as if it suddenly wondered if it had left the stove on, and then it just continues the job to completion. Here's a link to a video of it happening. Sorry if it's loud.
Second, I've run about a dozen jobs and this only started happening today, but, when I set my job zero and hit run, the Z carriage immediately goes straight up, hitting the limit switch but still continues going, until it slams into the plate over the Z motor pulley where it still tries to keep going and skips a couple teeth on the belt before stopping. Now it thinks it's higher than it really is and proceeds to scream into the work piece to a depth of 1/2" or more. But it doesn't happen all the time either. It did it several times this morning but then started behaving. I was able to cut a few test patterns, my sea of holes on my spoilboard, and surface my spoilboard, but now it's doing it again. At first I though it might be going to low and the tension from the springs was causing teeth to skip on the belt, so I took them off for lower jobs like threaded insert holes in the spoilboard. That worked for that job but now it's doing it on work pieces that are higher.
Lastly, every once in a while I'll get a "limit switch hit" error even if it's not depressing a limit switch and I have to shut off the machine and re-home.
Has anyone run into these problems before? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If it helps, I'm using VCarve Pro to Carbide Motion for almost all my jobs.
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@tito wrote:
I've read some comments about folks opening up the bottom of their Shapeokos to give increased vertical clearance. Apparently people haven't been doing this as much with the SO3 (maybe because it's harder to move?). In any case, I've been thinking about how one might do that (raise and lower work pieces, not the whole machine) and came across this:
No idea on the price but probably $$. Aside from that, any thoughts?
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Participants: 3
@grumpa wrote:
Finally I am up and running with my Shapeoko 3 ! Got the probe working, doing edge finding, setting my Z , and tool measurements after tool changes, Using Estlcam to control the cutting and it works great. Brought the svg into Estlcam and immeciately set tool paths, inside cut, outside cut, shallow drill holes to center mark screw locations. Boy does that MDF make dust. The 1st cuts are for the dust boot. The 1/8" flat cutter's feed and speed on the wiki seemed a bit slow, but I'm not experienced enough to know if it's too slow. The bit did start to get hot so that's my indication. Used 0.43 DOC, 32 mm/sec feed and 8 mm/sec plunge. I loaded my probe setup pics, I used a mini jack from headphones and connected it to the Z plate so I can unplug it to not have it in my way.
I cut the circle square triangle test first and came out with 0.005 precision, that's good enough for now, need better setup tools to get it closer and better eyes to see the caliper scale. Thanks
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@jordanhale wrote:
I have a newbie question about cutting times, I have this image that I'm cutting with the .0325 bit. Cutting depth of .01 and it been running for 13 hours and still not complete. Is this normal cutting time or am I doing something wrong?
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@Japmaco wrote:
Will be making alot of engraving on diff materials. For cockpit panels etc.
What is ppl using with their nomads for engrave? I have bought a 0.5mm and 1mm flat end mill and some engrave bits 0.1mm 15-90degrees to get me started.
I dont wanna sit in Fusions 360 and draw every letter in 3d like doing now. Has to be some smarter solution.
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Participants: 3
@idank wrote:
I've been using a Nomad for a while now and will soon get my hands on a SO3 XL. One of the things I noticed is that even with a small and newbie-friendly machine as the Nomad, there are some things that will make working with a CNC a lot easier if you take the time to set them up. An example being proper ways of holding material.
What's on your list of "must haves" for the SO3? (Links to tutorials if relevant will be appreciated.)
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@ssozonoff wrote:
Well after a few broken bits and some trial and error here is my PCB effort. The main component is a 45-pin LGA 0.5mm pitch module. The size of this thing is tiny tiny. I have been trying to figure out what I could put along side it to give some perspective. As can be seen on the bottom side the alignment is not 100% but pretty close. We are probably talking about 0.1mm. Not sure how I could get it any closer! The way I see it the hardest part for a double sided PCB (at least of this size) is alignement and surface flatness.
Now I still have to test the circuit and see that all works.......
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Maybe my thumb will give an idea of scale. You can also see the "dirt" in between the traces.
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@fiero1 wrote:
So, I normally use v-carve pro and like it for wood projects.
I want to start cutting aluminum and have heard fusion 360 with it's adaptive clearing is the way to go. I have got a bit of a grasp on the cad portion but man the cam side is killing me! I can never get it to consistently generate the tool paths that I want. what post processor is every one using?
Does any one have any tutorials that they recommend.
For those who used it before, do you like it? Thanks Ray
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Participants: 4
@JeffWimer wrote:
Playing around with Vcarve pro and my Shapeoko XXl. Found this in Woodworkers Journal. His one is a prototype. Hope to do the final in black walnut, or cherry.
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@Freddie2 wrote:
I've had 2 limit switches on the z axis fail, one was bad from the factory, the second failed after about 6 projects. I get a limit switch hit error and the z switch reads closed on the ohm meter. After replacing the first one, all went well for a couple of weeks, then same problem. I was just getting used to the homing benefits.
Is there a better switch available?
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Participants: 2
