@robgrz wrote:
The details are at:
https://carbide3d.com/blog/2019/carbide-create-400/
This should be the first of many updates in the coming months. (The next one should even make @RichCournoyer happy, even if only a little bit)
Posts: 6
Participants: 5
@WillAdams wrote:
I’ve been trying to learn Solvespace, and this came up: (Answered) Extreme newbie I do not even know words to use to search problem measuring
So doing it in Solvespace seems an obvious thing to look into.
Start by launching Solvespace, then drawing 4 circles:
Select 2 by mousing over so that they highlight yellow, then clicking on them to highlight them in red and make them equal in size by choosing Constrain | Equal Radius:
Repeat this for each remaining circle, making it equal to one of the original ones:
Select the centers of the top 2 circles and make them horizontal: Constrain | Horizontal:
Repeat with Constrain | Vertical for the left and right pair:
Use the line tool to draw an 8 sided object around the circles:
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Participants: 1
@WillAdams wrote:
Working through this now and thus far have:
https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/Design_into_3D#Toolpaths
- 0
- circle
- oval/ellipse (requires some sort of non-arc curve)
- egg-shaped (requires some sort of non-arc curve)
- annulus (one circle within another forming a ring)
- superellipse (see astroid below)
- 1
- cone with rounded end (arc)
- 2
- semicircle/circular segment (arc and a straight line)
- lens/vesical piscis (two convex curves)
- lune/crescent (one convex one concave curve)
- heart (two curves)
- tomoe (comma shape) — requires non arc curves
- 3
- triangle
- equilateral
- isosceles
- scalene
- sector (two straight edges, one convex arc)
- two straight edges, one concave arc
- Deltoid curve (three concave arcs)
- Reuleaux triangle (three convex arcs)
- Arbelos (one convex, two concave arcs)
- 4
- square
- rectangle
- parallelogram
- rhombus
- trapezoid/trapezium
- kite
- astroid (four concave arcs)
- salinon (four semicircles)
any obvious corrections or additions?
Other suggestions?
Posts: 13
Participants: 3
@gavla wrote:
Been having trouble with depth being much to deep, as in more than 4 x the amount set.
This is a new issue , was working fine. Ive tried multiple attempts of basic things like letters and squares on timber using motion and easel both with the same problem.Ive tightened the necessary nuts to ensure the machine is running as should. Ive tightened the belt but unsure how to work out how tight it needs to be , dont want to over do it!!
Ive changed the router bits, not sure why just running out of options
Any ideas appreciated
Posts: 8
Participants: 2
@Furyphoto wrote:
Trying out some textures. I wanted to make an address sign with a hand-carved look. I got some decent looking hand carving grooves with a few adjustments of the texture parameters, but when I simulate the carve the texture lines protrude into the letter and outline that defines the space for the texture to carve.
Is this just a limitation of the software, or will the texture carve into the letters when I run it?
Here is the simulation with the texture off, and with it on.
Posts: 6
Participants: 4
@mhoffman8727 wrote:
Hey all. Heres a few things we’ve been selling made proudly from our so3 XXL.
Not posting this for purposes of advertising, but we have a website with more photos as well. Feel free to check it out if you’re interested. It could help others get ideas for products they are making/ selling as well.
Unfortunately I cannot provide any of the files for these projects. We have a lot of time invested! But if there’s something you like feel free to send me a PM.
Also I wanted to comment on other projects on the forums here. Very cool stuff. I look forward to checking what others are making.
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Participants: 1
@gavla wrote:
Tried multiple times using different toothpaths etc through create, motion and easel and keeps going alot deeper than set
using shapeoko3 xxl
pretty new to this but did have working good previously
ive checked the nuts etc. all looks good lol
ive tightened the belt as tight as i think is good but dont know how to work out the propper tensionany help appreciated
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@WillAdams wrote:
Ages ago, there was an elegant little pamphlet entitled “Let’s Make a B for Bennet” which Warren Chappell wrote and illustrated.
Here’s a discussion of how to use Carbide Create’s new curve feature to draw a B.
We start with an image of a “B”: https://www.flickr.com/photos/letterformarchive/38372487832/in/album-72157687338823192/
Posts: 6
Participants: 1
@brrian wrote:
I bought one of these ‘ultra-quiet’ vacuums:
It has a 1-1/2" hose. I think I know the answer to this, but could I stay with the 1-1/2" hose from this to my dust deputy, then go 2-1/2" to the dust boot?
Has anybody used one of these Vacmasters? If I can’t make it work I’ll just return it.
Edit: I just tested it with the 1-1/2" hose, and with a 2-1/2" hose. As expected, 2-1/2" is better. It’s not quite the suction I’m getting from my current Rigid shop vac, but it’s so much quieter and may be sufficient.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@Stari wrote:
Alrighty… Finally after three faulty vfds I got one that will turn this spindle! Everything works, except once I hook the board up there is no response at all from the vfd. As soon as I unplug the PWM and ACM is turns on and I can change speed with the dial.
I did do it per lukes post
Connect the PWM pin to VI
Ground Pin to ACMIs there a setting I’m missing?
Posts: 11
Participants: 3
@MonkeyMan wrote:
Well, some time ago, I got my Nomad, and last year a Shapeoko XL + a Z axis and whatnot… but in all this time I have yet to get any of it up and running. Every time I’ve had a day to sit down with either, I swear I’ve ended up further behind than where I started hah. But now, I’ve returned to Design school, and finally have some projects for Finals that would really benefit from these sweet machines working. So I’m thinking, hey, excellent, that will force me to get to the bottom of at least one of them. I’ll start with the easiest, the Nomad, since it’s a turnkey machine to begin with. What could go wr…
- Alright, crank up the ol Mach3 leftover from when I had a big CNC router, and Mastercam to do the surfaces, and… nope, they don’t work. And they’re not going to. Ok, shoot, well what does?
- Inventor. Awesome, I’ve been designing in Inventor Pro for 15 years… nope, just Inventor Fusion… well, ok… oh it’s nothing like Inventor Pro whatsoever, but a web app, and now autodesk wants to bill us on a per calculation basis for our work? I am hesitant to invest in drawing a new library of parts that they’re going to nickle and dime me on every revision forever. Kind of defeats the purpose of being a home/hobbyist machinist.
- There’s always Carbide3D’s own programs. To get some simple parts going this weekend, I’ll just use Carbide Motion. Carbide motion works with meshcam. Didn’t Nomad come with a meshcam license? Oh yeah, it was on that hulking old workstation I recycled ages ago, before I switched to Macs. Ok, meshcam offers a 15day trial…
- DL’d the new apps, Installed: Motion4 no luck, Motion3 success, sort of, but not sure about homing, Meshcam gets to licensing window and hangs on no response.
- Ah ha! Because what I’ve got is actually an original 883.1, so I probably need to flash the new Grbl1.1. Ok, no sweat…
- gotta rip the thing apart and snip a jumper off… okidoki… once more into the breech
- Verify correct jumper removed. Yeop. x2. …3
- Reassemble… plug in… fire up Carbide Firmware Updater… and as per the appendix, it doesn’t immediately find the machine so… select it from the list… 2 bluetooth listings, 2 blanks… nothing else… wait that’s not part of the plan.
- Restart everything, brand new maxed out iMac reboots, and… notice an error notification pop up. “USB Accessories Disabled - Unplug the accessory using too much power to re-enable USB Devices.” Hm, it shouldn’t be using any power from the usb bus. Unplug all other devices but Keyboard… still throws up the error on plug-in. Hm.
It didn’t do that before the pin removal. I’ve search the community on the topic, but find nothing like it. I think I might be out of options if I can’t even plug the machine into the computer.
I’m trying to not cry in my cheerios. Anyone have any idears?
![07%20PM]()
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Participants: 3
@Chrisvz77 wrote:
Made this sign for my bar last night. Finished size is 20" x 16". Took nearly 8 hours to carve. Once the cutting was finished, I went over the surface with a propane torch to give it a unique finish.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@TNY77 wrote:
Hi guys, I have been cutting thin ~0.2 mm aluminum sheets with a 1/8" ZrN coated endmill in one pass with great success but also would like to cut SS about the same thickness.
I don’t want to trash my coated endmills so I was thinking of getting a regular carbide endmill and start with very shallow DOCs. Has anyone done this, recommendations? Lubrication?
Also the technique of holding the stock with two pieces of masking tape glued together didn’t work for me with alumimum since it was gumming my endmill.
Posts: 5
Participants: 2
@mjmike69688 wrote:
If would be nice if we could manipulate the circle functions skew. Make it into a simple ellipse or oval by simply being able to put different parameters for Height and Width. We may enter the radius of said circle but cannot manipulate x (width) and y (height) individually. If we type in different inputs for x and y it automatically changes both inputs to the x value entered.
I see that this was a function added to the text recently.
Essentially this would save a lot of time for those wanting to cut say a simple oval shape out,
Really not worth the effort right now to go through the steps and drawing all the poly lines in effort to get a perfect ellipse with carbide create.Just my 2 cents on the matter.
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
@moakley8 wrote:
Do other senders such as UGS offer the capability to resume a job from a specific Line number?
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@brrian wrote:
I mostly cut parts out of acrylic sheet. I almost always hold with tape & often use the wasteboard edges as guides for positioning my sheets. I usually zero to the bottom left corner of the sheet / wasteboard, and occasionally to the top left.
I’m thinking of making a new wasteboard & would like to use the rapid locations as the corners / constraining dimensions. Then I can just rapid to the corner I need & set it as zero. Per the dimensions below, that equals an 810mm wide x 770mm deep wasteboard.
Is there any reason I can’t or shouldn’t do this?
And I had no reason to notice this before, but I see that the horizontal “mid” rapid points aren’t truly in the center of anything - they’re closer to the back of the machine. Any reason why? I’d also like to use the mid rapid point as a zero for the jigs & fixtures I create. It just means I have to reach a little further… I’m just curious why it is where it is.
Thanks!
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@WillAdams wrote:
Making a monogram in Carbide Create can be done in a number of ways. One possible technique is a ring (annulus) with a letter within.
Posts: 3
Participants: 1
@ge-off wrote:
I am new to the vee carve and I am looking to carve a logo in wood. When I setup the tool path for it, it will run carve lines where it shouldn’t be through the center.
Is this an issue with the setup? how can I make sure it does not put carve through the center of the logo where there shouldn’t be.
I have tried selecting each line individually but no matter what I try it keeps looking as shown in the photo.thanks in advanced.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@Hooray2CNC wrote:
I did a V-Carve with a flat area clearance in VCarve. The wood is some old maple (I think) from a 1960’s chemistry lab. I’m getting massive tear-out. Since I have to finish this job, just wondered if anyone has any tips or recommended tools on how to sand without disturbing the already-stained top. Last time (different wood, however) I did two coats of 1/2 lb shellac, but some of the stain chipped during the cut, so I didn’t do it this time.
The ram’s head is only 6" tall, to give you an idea of scale.
Thanks.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
